z kashkaru jsme vzali bus smer jezero sayram, u kteryho jsme se meli planovane ocitnout za 36 az 38 hodin cesty luzkovym busem (to znamena ve trech radach ve dvou rovinach nad sebou postylky velikosti xs, jak jinka, pro cinany nic jinsiho potreba nejni). cesta plynula, porad hory a poust, a poust a hory...okolospici cestujici, co se na cizince, gringa, divali jak na ducha (maj na to i specialni slovo, kdyz vidi cizince, krici prej prizrak) a pri setkani nasich pohledu vzniknul umsev. jednoducha rovnice. casty otazky v cinstine, na ktery porad a neustale budeme jenom krcit ramenama, protoze marna lasky snaha, i spanel raoul, co se uci dva roky cinksy nejni schopnej rozumet ani mluvit cinsky. natoz pak my, zejo.
kdyz se setmelo, pan ridic, jiste prozirave a ohleduplne vuci cestujicim pustil telku, v ktery jel asi mistni soucasnej cajnapop, tzn. kvileni a srandovne presne vystihnutej kyc klipu ceskejch. ano, docela zajimava a poznavaci podivana, vsak ne na hodinu...ehm...bylo to dost nahlas:). ale hodina uplynula a my (jak kdo, ze) usinali. rano...zastavka na jidlo, mistnaci co umej nejlepsi rejzi a zeleninu k tomu, dopoledne, zastavka, mistnaci, co umej nejlepsi polivku s to-fu, odpoledne a dalsi noc. pani, co mela postel pode mnou byla ortodoxni muslimka, tzn. satek pres celou hlavu, nic moc asi nemohla videt, ale na dalsi vecerni davku klipu (btw tech stejnejch co minulou noc) si satek sundala. na arabskocinsky propagandisticky klany ala Kroky Frantiska Janecka, jenze pocinksu. tadeas rikal, ze pod nim byla namalovana. zvlastni cirkumstance...
v noci se bus porouchal, motor se musel opravovat spolecnejma silama vsech musulmanu v buse, a pokud ne silama, tak aspon ziranim jejich cernejch uhrancivejch oci. oprava zdarne se vydarila, frcime dal. za par hodin ten smaej problerm, vsechno se opakuje, vsichni koukaj do motoru a snazej se pomoct aspon tim, ze vejraj. zjevne to pomaha. probouzim se koelm sedmy rano, kdy spatruji jakousi megavodni plochu po pravystrane..budim tadease a chekcujeme, jestli to neni nahodou jezero, to nase kyzene jezero, ke kterymu smerujeme uz tech 38 hodin. a ono prej je a tedy nase zaplacena jizdenka do yinningu se jaksi prodlouzia az k jezeru.
jasne, ze si to nechame libit.
v jezere smacime nozky, v jezere pereme, v jezere jsou perloocky. pozoruju. kolem stada krav, ovci, konu a cinanu, co nam nabizej vyfoceni na hrbete jednoho z jejich oru. s usmevem odmitame...
chceme jit pro vodu, a chape se nas jakejsi mladoch (kterymu je 18-dozvidame se pak) co kupodivu celkm slusne mluvi anglicky a ma jedno oko sejdrem. to budi prazvlastni efekt, pri kterym mas porad pocit, ze se na tebe kouka, i kdyz mluvi uplne s nekym jinym. evidentne si chce procvicovat anglictinu a pta se nas na veci, co jsme se asi uci prvni rok s English is easy with..., tedy jaka je moje rodina, moje republika, my mesto a cim jsme jako narod specialni. kupodivu nemuzeme na nic prijit. ukazujeme mu na mape ceskou republiku, on pravi, ze o ni nic nevi. neni divu. v zari pujde na univerzitu a rikal, ze chce mit krasnej zivot a cestovat all over the world. krasna fraze, jenze od nej znela fakt jinak nez z ucebnic.
poskytnul nam misto na stan vedle jejich jurty a my se sli projit, proskocit do hor, na Tan-San, kde litali orli, rostly proteze a materidouska. pak taky pobihali svisti a srnky...no comment.
vecer epesni nudle se zeleninou a vajickem od jeho maminky, avsak zacalo prset. mysleli jsme, ze to ve stanu dame, ale porad to sililo a my vymekli a sli do jiny jurty, co nam blahosklonne poskytli. rano odjizdime smer urumqi (za 120juanu na cloveka) a vecer se v nem ocitame. chceme se jeste ten den dostat do turpanu, do poustni oazy 120 metru pod morskou hladinou, jenze z nadrazi nic uz takhle pozde vecer nefrci...leider nicht. jenze podnikavi pani taxikari vidi prilezitost v zapadakovi a tak nakonec usmlouvame cenu a jedeme taxikem s dalsima dvema mistnima dievcinama smer turpan. behem cesty sklopi ridic u spolujezdce (mne) kryt proti slunicku, na nemz je zespoda plazma obrazovka, na ktery necha bezet lautrstejny klipy jako ridic predchazejici. jenom se rezignovane smejeme a uzivame cestu smer oaza.
v ni vystupujeme kolem pulnoci a je tu brutalni vedro a asi 50stupnu a vitr vubec nepomaha a ve dne to bude jeste horsi, rikam si, ale ted je den, a neni, je to vpohode a ksiltovka aspon trosku chrani...
prikladam nejaky fotky z prubehu, neni cas na to napsat odkud presne to jest...pardon.
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